Yousmarg finally, Greater Lakes Trek Day 6

The last day of the Greater Lakes Trek was the most difficult. I started at Tosamaidan and the trek ended at Yousmarg. I walked a lot, battled altitude sickness, and experienced complete exhaustion. The weather gods were against us and it rained nearly every day. It was cold and foggy and at times, we could not even see the hands in front of our faces. After a day or two of trekking in the rain, our clothes no longer dried and our shoes were heavy, wet nasty muddy messes. We crossed icy rivers; climbed non-stop over the quintessential stony moraines of Kashmir, and walked through ankle-deep mud. On the second last day, we hired horses and I rode non-stop for 8 hours each day.  Somehow, it’s always the last stretch which seems to be endless, and reaching Dhiksal Meadow from Chanze Meadow via Ashtar Valley was like torture. First of all, it rained non-stop and we were wet, tired, and nearly blue from the cold. A local Bakarwal family sheltered us and we were glad to take a break from our exhausting journey.

Making a move towards Mazekhanen in the torrential rain

The last day of the Greater Lakes Trek in Kashmir

The previous night at the hospitable Bakarwal’s hut was cramped. We shared a small square piece of dry ground with nearly 8 people and many goats and woke up with goat pellets scattered on our blankets. The hostess’s spicy lamb curry made my tummy run and it was not a comfortable situation to be. It continued raining nonstop and Kashmir’s glorious meadows became swampy. Streams and rivulets became raging rivers and crossing them was difficult. The paths became slippery and once I fell so hard that I saw stars in the daytime. On our way, we passed broken bridges, fluorescent mushrooms, and swollen bodies of dead sheep. Stories of men being swept away due to broken bridges were rife and I was scared for the first time when crossing the raging Doodhganga river. Today, I cannot remember how long I rode in the rain that day but we crossed Mazekhanen Meadow, Frasnag

meadow, and lots of dark, brooding forests. Sometime during the early afternoon, the rolling meadows of Yousmarg appeared and you can imagine the relief and pangs of sadness we all felt. Yes, there were moments when I cried, “I want to go home”, but it was difficult to say goodbye to this amazing experience. Would I do this again? – Yes, at the drop of a hat.

Heading over to Ashtar Valley; I rode for more than 8 hours that day
Javed and me
Shuib and me

The flower-filled Ashtar Valley
Tosamaidan

Chanze Meadow

Overnight at a Bakarwal´s hut at Diskhal
Chanze Meadow
Heading over to Ashtar Valley; I rode for more than 8 hours that day

One of the rare sunny days
A rare sunset
Our Bakarwal hosts at Dhiskal Valley

Moraine

Mazekhanen
Yousmarg, the last destination of the Greater Lakes Trek in Kashmir

FAQs

How difficult is Yousmarg?
Reaching Yousmarg as the final stage of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek was the hardest day of all — crossing the raging Doodhganga river, broken bridges, and nonstop rain after days of accumulated exhaustion.

How many days does Yousmarg take to complete?
As the endpoint of the Tosamaidan-Yousmarg trek, it’s typically reached on the final day of a roughly week-long circuit, after passing through Chanze Meadow, Ashtar Valley and Dhiskal Meadow.

What is the best season to attempt Yousmarg?
Summer is the standard trekking season, though this account’s final day still involved nonstop rain, fog so thick they couldn’t see their own hands, and a genuinely frightening river crossing.

Do you need a guide for Yousmarg?
Absolutely — crossing a raging river like the Doodhganga and navigating broken bridges and dense forest in poor visibility is not something to attempt without an experienced local guide.

What should you pack for Yousmarg?
By the final stretch, dry clothes and shoes are almost impossible to keep, so pack more spare layers than you think you need, along with sturdy footwear for river crossings and muddy trails.

Can you describe what a day on Yousmarg actually feels like, physically and mentally?
The final day meant hours on horseback through rain and fog, a frightening crossing of the swollen Doodhganga river, and passing broken bridges and dead livestock — physically brutal and, at points, genuinely frightening — before the emotional relief of finally seeing Yousmarg’s meadows.

What should I train for or prepare before attempting Yousmarg?
Prepare for accumulated exhaustion — by the final day of the trek, days of rain, cold and river crossings compound, so mental resilience matters as much as physical fitness.

What were the hardest and most rewarding parts of Yousmarg?
The hardest part was the fear of crossing the swollen Doodhganga river after days of rain; the most rewarding was finally seeing Yousmarg’s rolling meadows appear, mixing relief with genuine sadness that the trek was ending.

What gear or supplies turned out to matter most on Yousmarg?
A dependable horse or guide support mattered enormously on the final stretch, given the dangerous river crossings and hours of riding through rain and fog.

What would you tell a first-time trekker considering Yousmarg?
Expect the final day to be the hardest, both physically and emotionally, but know that most trekkers who make it through — even through tears and a desire to quit — say they’d do it again in a heartbeat.

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