Dhiskal Meadow and Bakarwal hospitality, Greater Lakes Trek Day 5

We left Chanze Meadow in the midst of blinding rain. Our destination was Dhiskal Meadow near Yousmarg (the end destination of the trek). Thankfully, the evening before, my local guide, Javed had managed to hire a horse and even though, it was to take us only to Ashtar Valley, it was a heaven-sent offer. By this time, my clothes no longer got dry and my shoes made a squelchy sound every time I walked. I was wet, my foot sore, and exhausted. The constant rain also made matters worse and all I could think of was to head back to the creature comforts of Srinagar: a hot bath, a nice bed, and clean, dry clothes. It was a far cry from the excited, energetic enthusiasm of the start but we all have our limits. In retrospect, the last two days were challenging but they also proved that I could do it; I would not break down and cry in the face of adversity.

The flower-filled Ashtar Valley

Our trek that day took us via Ashtar Valley. On clear, sunny days, Ashtar is one of the most beautiful places in Kashmir. Most people say that it is a literal carpet of wildflowers. On that day, flowers still bloomed in masses, but the blinding rain made us rush through it. Bakarwal and Gujjars roamed the mountains and valleys, despite the rains, and the bells of their herds echoed strangely. The world seemed to be a strange place of subdued sounds, sights, and colours. Everything seemed to be wrapped in cotton wool as fog lowered the visibility in some places. At times, I could hear the sound of rushing water but could hardly see anything due to the fog. Javed, Shuib, and I trudged along and at one point, clouds opened to reveal some patches of sunshine. Ashtar Valley opened up in front of us. It was a magical dream; just as the travel brochures describe it. There were endless carpets of wildflowers, green meadows that glistened emerald green, and a gorgeous river ran by. We crossed the river, exchanged horses, and walked on towards Dhiskal Meadow, which seemed to be too far.

Dhiskal Meadow and Bakarwal hospitality

The rain started again with more ferocity and fog covered us completely. I cannot remember how long we walked/rode that day but by the time, we reached Dhiskal Meadow, we were fainting from exhaustion. And the cruel rain just wouldn´t stop. I was so cold that my teeth chattered and my fingers were numb from holding the reins. Somewhere in the middle of the vast Dhiskal Meadow, we saw a Bakarwal (nomadic Kashmiri herder) hut. It was a fundamental structure of mud, tarpaulin, and wood and goats everywhere. The hospitality we received inside, however, was princely. The Bakarwal family took us in, shared their food and kangri with us and never once made us feel unwelcome. We spent that night in the hut with the family and thanked god for still having such kind, simple people on earth. The kindness of strangers: have you experienced it during your travels?……….to be contd.

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FAQs

How difficult is the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
By day five, this account describes real exhaustion — hours of riding and walking through relentless rain and fog to reach Dhiskal Meadow near Yousmarg, showing just how physically and mentally taxing later days can get.

How many days does the Kashmir Great Lakes trek take to complete?
This account’s trek ran across at least five days, ending near Yousmarg after passing through Chanze Meadow, Ashtar Valley and Dhiskal Meadow.

What is the best season to attempt the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Even in the main summer trekking window, this day-five account faced hours of unrelenting rain and fog, a reminder that weather can turn regardless of season.

Do you need a guide for the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Yes — the local guide on this trek was able to arrange a horse for the toughest stretch to Ashtar Valley, a resource an independent trekker likely wouldn’t have access to.

What should you pack for the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Pack for multi-day wet conditions — by day five, this trekker’s clothes and shoes hadn’t dried out at all, so extra dry layers and truly waterproof gear are worth the weight.

Can you describe what a day on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek actually feels like, physically and mentally?
Day five meant hours on horseback and foot through blinding rain and fog to Dhiskal Meadow, utterly soaked and exhausted, yet ending with the unexpected warmth of a Bakarwal family sharing their hut, food and kangri fire for the night.

What should I train for or prepare before attempting the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Prepare mentally as much as physically — multiple days of continuous rain and cold can wear you down, so resilience matters as much as fitness.

What were the hardest and most rewarding parts of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
The hardest part was days of nonstop rain leaving clothes and shoes permanently wet by day five; the most rewarding was the unexpected hospitality of a Bakarwal family who took the trekkers in for the night.

What gear or supplies turned out to matter most on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Genuinely waterproof gear mattered most — by day five, ordinary rain gear had failed to keep clothes and shoes dry through repeated storms.

What would you tell a first-time trekker considering the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Expect some genuinely hard days, especially if the weather turns, but trust that moments of real kindness — like a Bakarwal family opening their hut to strangers — can turn the toughest day into the most memorable one.