Greater Lakes Trek, Kashmir: a photo essay

The Greater Lakes Trek in Kashmir is one of the most beautiful and trying experiences I ever had. Now, you may wonder, why I have uttered two contradictory expressions in one breath. The reason is that while the landscape through which we trekked was unbelievably magnificent, bad weather conditions made it a grueling affair. First of all, we experienced nonstop rain and the mornings were mostly foggy thus reducing visibility to almost zero at times. The rain made the rivers swell up and even the slimmest of brooks gushed with water. The meadows turned swampy and at places, we had to walk through ankle-deep mud. We were constantly wet, cold, and nearly always tired. However, we saw the stunning vistas of Kashmir´s famous alpine meadows; exquisite glacial lakes on which chunks of ice floated; and endless fields of wildflowers. We experienced the genuine hospitality of the Himalayan shepherds (Bakarwals) and even stayed overnight at one of their hutments. We slept on the ground cuddling goats and furry baby ewes for warmth, and nine of us shared one carpet. I learned to drink scalding butter tea, walk around with a burning kangri (coal stove) underneath my clothes, and appreciate simple, human kindness once again. Most importantly, I regained my confidence as a solo woman traveler because I trusted two formerly unknown men during the entire trek and they prioritized my safety and security over theirs. These two were the adventure company owner, Shuib Kaw, and the local guide, Javed Raja. India receives a lot of negative publicity owing to the sexual harassment of solo female travelers in the country and while this is often true, I felt safe, comfortable, and secure during my entire trip. Take a look at this photo series of each day of the trek and stay tuned for one of the most beautiful travel experiences I have shared on this blog. I will share the itinerary and other details at the end of this series, so stay tuned and enjoy this visual feast of my Greater Lakes Trek photo essay.

Meet Shuib Kaw and Javed Raja, my co-trekkers, and travel guides
The first stop of the Greater Lakes trek was at Tosamaidan
The magnificent Gadtarsar (Fish Lake)
The stunning Sanduksar (Treasure Lake)
Endless fields of wildflowers near Gadtarsar: our second stop

A Bakarwal tending his sheep at Chanze meadow, our third stop of the Greater Lakes Trek
A rare sunset
Heading over to Ashtar Valley; I rode for more than 8 hours that day
The flower-filled Ashtar Valley
Overnight at a Bakarwal´s hut at Diskhal
Our kind hosts at Diskhal
Making a move towards Mazekhanen in the torrential rain
Mazekhanen
Finally, the rolling hills of Yousmarg
Despite the fatigue, rain, cold, and mud, would I do it again?
Absolutely yes, wouldn´t you?

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FAQs

What does the Kashmir Great Lakes trek look like?
It’s a landscape of alpine meadows, glacial lakes dotted with floating ice, and endless wildflower fields, stretching through stops like Tosamaidan, Gadtarsar (Fish Lake) and Sanduksar (Treasure Lake).

What are the best photo spots in the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Gadtarsar (Fish Lake), Sanduksar (Treasure Lake), the wildflower fields near Gadtarsar, and the flower-filled Ashtar Valley are the standout photo spots along the route.

What is Greater Lakes Trek Kashmir photo essay about?
It’s a day-by-day photo essay of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek, capturing glacial lakes, alpine meadows and an overnight stay with Bakarwal shepherds despite challenging rain and fog.

What makes the Kashmir Great Lakes trek visually striking?
The combination of glacial lakes with floating chunks of ice, sweeping alpine meadows, and endless wildflower fields makes this trek visually unlike anywhere else in India.

When is the best time to photograph the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Clear weather is key for photography here, since rain and fog can reduce visibility to near zero, so it’s worth planning around the summer trekking season with some flexibility for weather.

Can you describe what visiting the Kashmir Great Lakes trek actually looks and feels like, through someone’s own eyes?
It’s both beautiful and gruelling — stunning glacial lakes and wildflower meadows alongside days of nonstop rain, foggy mornings, and ankle-deep mud, balanced by the genuine hospitality of Bakarwal shepherds.

What visual details make the Kashmir Great Lakes trek stand out compared to other destinations?
Few treks combine glacial lakes with floating ice, high-altitude wildflower meadows, and encounters with Himalayan shepherd communities like the Bakarwals in one route.

What’s the story behind Greater Lakes Trek Kashmir photo essay?
It follows a multi-day trek through Tosamaidan, Gadtarsar, Sanduksar and Ashtar Valley, including an overnight stay at a Bakarwal shepherd’s hut in Diskhal during heavy rain.

If I wanted to capture the Kashmir Great Lakes trek well in photos, what should I focus on?
Focus on the glacial lakes with their floating ice, the wildflower-covered meadows, and candid moments with Bakarwal shepherds and their livestock along the trail.

What impressions does the Kashmir Great Lakes trek tend to leave on first-time visitors?
Despite tough weather, most trekkers come away struck by the sheer beauty of the alpine lakes and meadows, and reassured by the warmth and hospitality of the Bakarwal shepherds they meet along the way.

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