The beautiful Chanze meadow, Greater Lakes Trek Day 4

The next day started on a gloomy note. It was cloudy and rainy, and the visibility was very poor. However, since we just had to move on towards Yousmarg, we packed up our tents, loaded the horse, and started a long trek towards Chanze meadow. That was our fourth day of the trek and we had been wet for the third consecutive day. Our shoes by now were too soaked to get dry and whenever we sat near a stove, wisps of smoke rose from them. They became heavy with moisture and I hated slipping my dry feet inside their soppy interiors. Our clothes too were wet (or damp at best) and as you can understand, it was a tired group that started trekking towards Chanze meadow. I cannot remember anymore how far we walked or the route that we crossed but I recollect the sun shining briefly near the Shaliganga river.

Crossing moraines for Chanze Meadow

The previous days´ rains had increased the water flow and by the time we reached the shore, Shaliganga was a raging stream. My heart sank and I could not appreciate the beauty of wildflowers that carpeted the banks of the river. Fir and deodar forests grew on the surrounding hills and when the sun shone, we saw glistening white peaks of the mountains that encircled us. It was a beautiful sight and I noticed the landscape changing slightly. There were more rolling meadows with large clumps of flowering shrubs and the hills rose gently to create slim valleys. For the first time, I saw in reality what my geography teacher in school described as moraines and the sight took my breath away. Snaking through these vast Kashmiri valleys were what seemed like rivers of huge boulders. These were accumulations of earth and stones carried and finally deposited by glaciers that once flowed through these places. The contrast of rolling meadows, moraines, and alpine forests was simply stunning. Then, there were the Bakarwals who roamed these places with their huge flocks. The barking of their dogs, the bleating of their sheep and goats, and their signal whistles echoed through the hills. One could see them disappearing and appearing amidst the mists, their mud and stick shelters standing alone on hilltops. These were temporary shelters often used by Bakarwals and little did I know that I would soon spend a night in one of them.

Kashmiri nomads and their animals

As we neared Chanze Meadow, clusters of camps appeared. Bakarwals, traveling veterinarians, and Galwans lived in them in the summer. Just like the Bakarwals are recognized Kashmiri pastoral nomads, Galwans are Kashmiri horse herders. Their main profession includes grazing, watching, and warding horses, and ponies and they mostly reside near meadows and highlands. Due to its substantial size, Chanze Meadow is popular among both Bakarwals and Galwans and animals abound on its grassy knolls. We camped near a little stream at Chanze Meadow and from my tent, I could see the sky, rolling meadows, galloping horses, and bleating sheep. In the afternoon, I was kept company by a shaggy sheepdog, who was drawn by my dry, warm tent. At night, I listened to the whistling Bakarwals roaming the meadows looking for their lost animals. Their whistles echoed the pitch-black night and their flashlights twinkled like stars. Chanze Meadow was indeed a beautiful spot, and although it rained a lot that day and the ground was wet and spongy, I did not mind spending my night there…..to be contd.

Follow the rest of the Kashmir series

• 21 PHOTOS THAT MAY TEMPT YOU TO VISIT KASHMIR
• SRINAGAR TULIP FESTIVAL
• WALIMA, A KASHMIRI WAZWAN WEDDING FEAST
• THE MOUTH WATERING KASHMIRI CUISINE
• FAMILY FRIENDLY KASHMIR ITINERARY
• OFFBEAT KASHMIR ITINERARY IDEAS
• FLOATING VEGETABLE MARKET OF SRINAGAR
• GREATER LAKES TREK, KASHMIR: A PHOTO ESSAY
• TOSAMAIDAN, GREATER LAKES TREK DAY 1
• GADTARSAR, GREATER LAKES TREK DAY 2
• BANDERSAR AND ONWARDS, GREATER LAKES TREK DAY 3

RESPONSIBLE TRAVELING-BECAUSE I CARE

FAQs

How difficult is the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
By day four, this account describes trekking through a third consecutive wet day, with shoes too soaked to dry and gear steaming by the campfire — a good sign of how physically wearing consecutive rainy days can be.

How many days does the Kashmir Great Lakes trek take to complete?
This account’s trek reached Chanze Meadow on day four, en route to Yousmarg, as part of a roughly week-long route.

What is the best season to attempt the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Summer is trekking season, when Chanze Meadow itself fills with seasonal Bakarwal and Galwan herder camps — though as this account shows, rain can persist for days even then.

Do you need a guide for the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Yes — crossing moraine terrain in poor visibility and navigating toward camps used by local Bakarwal and Galwan herders is far safer with an experienced guide.

What should you pack for the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Pack more spare dry socks and layers than you think you’ll need — by day four of consistent rain, this trekker’s shoes and clothes simply couldn’t dry out between days.

Can you describe what a day on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek actually feels like, physically and mentally?
Day four meant trekking in low visibility with permanently soaked shoes and clothes, only to arrive at the beautiful Chanze Meadow, camping among Bakarwal and Galwan herder camps with horses grazing and sheep bleating nearby.

What should I train for or prepare before attempting the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Prepare for the mental toll of multiple consecutive wet days, not just the physical distance — staying motivated through days three and four of persistent rain is its own challenge.

What were the hardest and most rewarding parts of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
The hardest part was trekking a third straight rainy day with soaked gear that wouldn’t dry; the most rewarding was camping at Chanze Meadow, surrounded by galloping horses and the distant whistles of Bakarwal herders at night.

What gear or supplies turned out to matter most on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
A reliable camp stove for drying out shoes and clothes mattered enormously by day four, when persistent rain had left everything damp and heavy.

What would you tell a first-time trekker considering the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Accept that a few days of being genuinely wet and uncomfortable are part of the deal, and know that meadows like Chanze — alive with herders, horses and sheep — make it worthwhile.