Gadtarsar and other lakes, Greater Lakes Trek Day 2
Also known as the Fish Lake, Gadtarsar (Sar meaning lake in the local language) was supposed to be our stop on the second day. I woke up early after a refreshing night´s sleep and found that my altitude sickness was gone. The sky was a pale silver with some fleeting clouds but it did not look ominous. The morning air was crisp and carpets of wildflowers stretched as far as eyes could see. I washed at the nearby stream, drank, and walked around until it was time for breakfast. Gadtarsar was not too far and it looked like a good day for a brisk walk. After breakfast, we packed and trekked along a ridge. Bakarwals (Kashmiri nomadic shepherds) passed us, their herds skipping, bleating, and making a tremendous noise that startled the morning silence. It was only broken by the sharp barks of the sheepdogs that accompanied each Bakarwal shepherd and these watchful canines kept sharp eyes on us outsiders. It was watching each Bakarwal having his own sound with each it called out to its herds. Sometimes these were whistles and more than often rattling sounds made by a plastic bottle filled with pebbles.
Rain by Gadtarsar
It got foggy by the time we passed a small glacier and visibility dropped considerably. The rain came unexpectedly. It was a persistent needle-sharp shower that soaked us to our socks. However, it cleared soon enough and we trudged along now muddy, slippery mountain trails. It was a wide trail though, marked out carefully, with the help of the massive tawny boulders that lie scattered in abundance. We walked, ascended, descended, and crossed small valleys until we came to the banks of a small stream. The downpour had swelled up the stream and the surrounding area was criss-crossed by similar water bodies that got accentuated by the rain. Swamps started forming in small patches and neon yellow and hot pink flowers bloomed there in abundance. There were so many wildflowers that the valley looked almost multi-coloured. We pitched our tents slightly away from the gushing stream and after a nice, hot lunch explored the stunning Gadtarsar, Sonduksar, and Damamsar.
The fish lake
Gadtarsar was large and it was supposedly filled with trouts. Sanduksar was the prettiest and its name apparently meant a ´treasure lake´. Damamsar was beautiful too and I found it incredible to be sitting at the bank of alpine lakes at 3900m in the heart of the Pir Panjal mountain range. Just two days before I was rushing through the crowds at Frankfurt and there I was enjoying silence and solitude beside high-altitude alpine lakes. It was a feeling indeed to be savoured and grateful for. A lovely sunset accompanied us back to our campsite and after an early dinner, we retired to our tents, to dry our clothes and curl up inside our sleeping bags. The next day we were to climb higher and explore deeper and I was looking forward to more frozen lakes, vast meadows, and wildflowers…..to be contd.
Follow the rest of the Kashmir series
- 21 PHOTOS THAT MAY TEMPT YOU TO VISIT KASHMIR
- SRINAGAR TULIP FESTIVAL
- WALIMA, A KASHMIRI WAZWAN WEDDING FEAST
- THE MOUTH WATERING KASHMIRI CUISINE
- FAMILY FRIENDLY KASHMIR ITINERARY
- OFFBEAT KASHMIR ITINERARY IDEAS
- FLOATING VEGETABLE MARKET OF SRINAGAR
- GREATER LAKES TREK, KASHMIR: A PHOTO ESSAY
- TOSAMAIDAN, GREATER LAKES TREK DAY 1
RESPONSIBLE TRAVELING-BECAUSE I CARE
FAQs
How difficult is the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
It’s a moderately strenuous high-altitude trek — expect long daily walks above 3,900m, unpredictable rain and fog, and possible altitude sickness early on, as this account experienced on day one.
How many days does the Kashmir Great Lakes trek take to complete?
It’s typically done over about a week, covering a string of alpine lakes including Gadtarsar, Sanduksar and Damamsar along the way.
What is the best season to attempt the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Mid-summer is the usual trekking window, though even then, as this account shows, rain and fog can roll in without much warning.
Do you need a guide for the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Yes — given the remote terrain, unpredictable weather, and river crossings that can swell suddenly with rain, a local guide or trekking group is strongly recommended.
What should you pack for the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Pack for both sun and heavy rain — warm layers, a reliable rain shell, sturdy waterproof boots, and camping gear, since streams can swell fast and swampy patches form underfoot.
Can you describe what a day on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek actually feels like, physically and mentally?
A typical day mixes long ascents and descents through wildflower-covered valleys with the physical grind of stream crossings and sudden rain, balanced by the mental reward of reaching alpine lakes like Gadtarsar and Sanduksar.
What should I train for or prepare before attempting the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Prepare for sustained walking at altitudes above 3,900m and be ready for possible altitude sickness in the first day or two, plus river crossings that can turn tricky after rain.
What were the hardest and most rewarding parts of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
The hardest parts were the rain-swollen streams and boggy valley crossings; the most rewarding was reaching Gadtarsar, Sanduksar and Damamsar — three strikingly different alpine lakes within the Pir Panjal range.
What gear or supplies turned out to matter most on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Reliable rain gear and waterproof boots mattered most, given how quickly streams swelled and swampy patches formed after sudden downpours.
What would you tell a first-time trekker considering the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?
Go in with flexible expectations for weather, don’t underestimate the altitude, and take heart that even a rough, rainy day can end with camping beside a stunning alpine lake.
