Kal Beliya, the snake charming gypsies of Rajasthan

In Bundi, I teamed up with Om Prakash Kukki, a local guide and amateur archaeologist. He is a very interesting man who is interested in three things: archaeology, local indigenous culture, and learning. Kukki ji took me around the surrounding countryside on his motorbike, and when he realized that I was as curious as he was with minimum regard for comfort, he gave more than his professional fee warranted. Thus, it came that I explored the amazingly beautiful Bhilwara countryside, saw stunning ancient rock paintings, and met different indigenous communities of the region. Of all the groups of people that I met, the Kal Beliya community intrigued me the most, and it is their astonishing heritage that caught my interest.

Kal Beliya, the nomadic desert snake charmers

Popularly known as the snake charming gypsies of the desert, the Kal Beliya people’s heritage lies in snake handling. The Kal Beliya tribe was once professional snake handlers, and they are famous for their incredible dance in which they incorporate their former occupation. This community belongs to the scheduled tribe category in India, and they lead a nomadic life. Most of their settlements can be found in the Pali district of Rajasthan. They move around Ajmer, Chittorgarh, and Udaipur as well. Thus, they are born in harsh conditions, and scorching sands, hot winds, and temporary homes are familiar grounds with them. Their community name suggests their erstwhile profession, with Kal meaning death and Kal Beliya referring to the tribe’s control over poisonous snakes and the ultimate fear of death.

The ancestry of this interesting community

Apart from the bizarre profession, Kal Beliya also has a very interesting history. This community traces its ancestry from Kanlipar, who was the 12th disciple of Guru Gorakhnath, the founder of the Nath tradition. Thus, they have an affinity towards this sect and its beliefs. They are also followers of Guru Kanipa, one of the nine masters who reside on Mount Kailash, alongside Lord Shiva. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva offered a bowl of all the poison of the universe to Kanipa, who consumed it all at once. Moved by his dedication, Lord Shiva promised Kanipa that the world would always remember him and his descendants.

Traditional healers and toxin purgers

This mythological story explains the traditional occupation of the Kal Beliya as snake charmers, snake catchers, and venom traders. Some of the members of this community are also healers who are capable of curing poisonous snake bites. Their remedies largely include mantras, as well as an unusual mixture of herbs and camel urine, whose bitter taste causes the victim to vomit, thus purging their body of the toxin. Over the generations, the Kal Beliya, owing to their nomadic lifestyle, have acquired a unique understanding of the local flora and fauna.

They also know herbal remedies for various illnesses, and this knowledge provides them with an alternative and additional source of income. Ironically, despite their affinities with Hinduism, the Kal Beliya people have one tradition that is completely different from the Hindu practice – they bury their dead, rather than cremating them. In fact, the Kal Beliyas have elaborate post-mortem rituals that bear an uncanny resemblance to the Pharaonic practices, and these are related to pollution, as well as the restoration of purity after death.

The UNESCO-listed Kal Beliya dance

These desert gypsies are also famous for their dance form, which is an integral part of their identity. For them, their dances are expressions of their traditional way of life, and in 2010, the Kal Beliya dance was included in the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization’s (UNESCO) list of Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH). The Kal Beliya dance is performed only by women, and the men play the music. It is an extremely graceful dance where the movements resemble those of a snake – sensuous and gyrating.

Women in black flowing clothes swirl, replicating the movements of a serpent, while men play the “khanjari” instrument and the “poongi”, a musical woodwind instrument traditionally played to capture snakes. The dancers embellish themselves with traditional tattoos, jewellery, and their clothes are embroidered with small mirrors and silver threads. The dancers wear traditional tattoo designs, jewellery, and garments richly embroidered with small mirrors and silver thread. The Kal Beliya songs are inspired by Rajasthani folklore, and these are passed down through generations as an inheritance. These songs and dance routines do not have any written text or training manual and form part of the oral heritage of the community.

A revival of one of the most sensuous folk dances

In the olden days, the Kal Beliya people used to work as professional snake charmers, healers, and venom dealers. However, the enactment of the Wildlife Act of 1972 has forced them to stop their traditional trade of snake catching. As a result, performance art has become a major source of income for this once nomadic tribe. Once upon a time, their artistic acumen made them very popular as performers, and they were hired to entertain kings and noblemen.

Nowadays, with the near extinction of their erstwhile trades, the Kal Beliya people struggle for existence. While many of their women have resorted to prostitution, the men work as blue-collar workers. This has not only resulted in the dissolution of their way of life, but their art is also in danger of extinction. However, not all is bad with this community, which is especially has the fame for being adaptable and resolute. Many of these desert gypsies are exploring new and creative ways to keep their heritage alive, the most famous being the Youtube tutorials offered by Divya Dance School.

Over the last few years, governmental agencies have been making efforts towards preserving this dance form by offering Kal Beliya performances in international fairs and festivals. Thus, this UNESCO-listed dance is gaining recognition around the world and giving chances to Kal Beliyas with better opportunities for existence. As a tourist, you can enjoy the Kalbeliya dance at the Sam Sand Dunes in Jaisalmer. Here, many desert camps host evening musical and dance programs. For more details, visit Chetram Voyages Jaisalmer tour packages.

Follow the rest of the Rajasthan series

• SHEKHAWATI TEASER
• THE PAINTED HAVELIS OF MANDAWA
• SONE CHANDI KI DUKAN IN MAHANSAR
• THE FATEHPUR PAINTED MANSIONS
• THE CROWN JEWEL OF NAWALGARH
• HOW TO VISIT THE PAINTED HAVELIS OF SHEKHAWATI
• BEAUTIFUL DETAILS OF RANAKPUR JAIN TEMPLE
• BUNDI, AN OFFBEAT GEM IN RAJASTHAN
• THE MEDIEVAL CHARM OF BUNDI TOWN
• TARAGARH FORT IN BUNDI
• GARH PALACE OF BUNDI
• BUNDI PAINTINGS
• PHOTO ESSAY OF BUNDI FRESCOES
• BUNDI STEPWELLS
• BHILWARA WILDERNESS

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FAQs

What are the best attractions in Rajasthan?
This article isn’t a general attractions guide but a portrait of the Kal Beliya, a nomadic desert community in Rajasthan traditionally known as snake charmers. It was written after the author explored the Bhilwara countryside near Bundi with a local guide, encountering ancient rock paintings and various indigenous communities along the way.

Is Rajasthan worth visiting?
The article speaks to this indirectly through its description of Rajasthan’s rich cultural depth — the Bhilwara countryside is described as amazingly beautiful, with ancient rock art and living indigenous traditions like the Kal Beliya’s UNESCO-listed dance and music heritage, suggesting a region with layers well worth exploring beyond its famous forts and palaces.

How much time should I spend in Rajasthan?
The article doesn’t address trip length, but the author’s own experience — touring the Bhilwara countryside by motorbike with a knowledgeable local guide — suggests that unhurried, guided exploration off the main tourist track can reveal much more than a rushed visit.

What is Rajasthan famous for?
Beyond its forts and palaces, this article highlights Rajasthan’s Kal Beliya community, traditionally desert snake charmers and healers whose UNESCO-recognized dance and music — known for being sensuous and expressive — has become internationally celebrated and is now performed at fairs and festivals worldwide.

Is Rajasthan tourist-friendly?
The article doesn’t address this directly, but it does show how a knowledgeable local guide — in this case Om Prakash Kukki, a local guide and amateur archaeologist in Bundi — can open doors to encounters and places a typical visitor might otherwise miss.

I’m planning a trip to Rajasthan — what should I prioritize seeing and doing there?
Beyond the major forts and cities, the article suggests seeking out Rajasthan’s indigenous communities and their traditions — like the Kal Beliya, whose distinctive music and dance are now a global cultural export. Exploring the Bhilwara countryside for ancient rock paintings, ideally with a local guide, is also highlighted as a rewarding, off-the-beaten-path experience.

Can you give me an honest, first-hand take on what Rajasthan is actually like to visit?
The author’s account is a candid, close-up look at one community rather than a sweeping travel narrative — she describes being intrigued most by the Kal Beliya out of all the groups she met, drawn to their remarkable heritage as snake charmers and traditional healers, and moved by learning about both the beauty of their culture and the very real hardships facing their community today.

What’s the best time of year to visit Rajasthan, and why?
The article doesn’t specify a best season to visit.

What should a first-time visitor to Rajasthan know before they go?
Worth knowing: Rajasthan is home to distinctive nomadic communities like the Kal Beliya, whose traditional livelihood as snake charmers and traditional healers has largely disappeared, and who today face real economic hardship as their old trades fade. Their globally recognized dance and music tradition, however, is undergoing a revival, kept alive partly through platforms like online dance tutorials and government-supported festival performances.

How does Rajasthan compare to nearby destinations for someone deciding where to go?
The article doesn’t compare Rajasthan to other regions directly, staying focused on the depth of what’s found within it — from ancient rock art in the Bhilwara countryside to distinct communities like the Kal Beliya whose cultural practices are unlike anything found elsewhere in India.