Tarabuco, a lively, indigenous market

May 8, 2025By maverickbirdPosted in Bolivia, Outside India, South America

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A lively Sunday artisan market hosted by indigenous Yampura people in the town of Tarabuco, it is located approximately 65 km southeast of Sucre. A popular tourist attraction for visitors to Sucre for buying locally crafted tapestries, bags, hats, sweaters, and shawls, every Sunday morning, the plaza gets crowded with rows of shared public vans which take 30 Bolivianos and 2 hours to reach Tarabuco.

Although the day started early, it was a beautiful drive through the mountainous rural Bolivia, and the countryside looked glorious in the soft morning light. The market was indeed very photogenic, sadly, also a major tourist trap. Yampura people strutted around in their indigenous costumes and shopped, dined, wandered, and gossiped. They were an amazingly colorful collection of rural indigenous Bolivians in bright shawls, frilly skirts, hats, twin braids, and a mouthful of coca.

The Tarabuco Sunday market was their weekly highlight, and they traveled for miles to come to town to buy necessary household items and gossip. Their love for hats is legendary, and the headgear shops draw the maximum crowd.

Barter system at Tarabuco market

It was an outstanding success by all means, and a section of the market did not even deal in cash, but still used only the barter system. There were fruits, vegetables, woolens, leather goods, headgear, handicrafts, and a fresh meat zone apart from cheap food stalls where broths bubbled in huge cauldrons. For me, it was an alien explosion of sights, sounds, feelings, and emotions, and I wandered around the incredible movie set like a market, staring at the leathery shoemakers, harsh-faced old Yampura vegetable sellers, and bright-eyed babies playing with a headless Barbies.

By mid-afternoon, the market emptied considerably, and the local vendors started to close up their shops. There were 2 major restaurants in Tarabuco, and their owners hustled aggressively for customers. I wandered to the central square, got led by 1 and lunched at a lovely garden restaurant. Average food was passed off as organic, and the much-acclaimed folk dance performances were lame at best.

But it felt very pleasant to sit under a huge Yampura sky and soak in the rural pleasures amidst roses, stone urns, and friendly indigenous stares.

Return to Sucre and onwards to Potosi

Post lunch, the sky suddenly grew dark and I unwillingly boarded the last public bus back to Sucre. Although I had plans to explore the countryside a bit, big fat raindrops got me scuttling back on board where I slept throughout the way. Dinner happened at the terrible Chifa New Hong Kong restaurant, and it was the worst attempt at Chinese food I had ever tasted (as expected in South America).

After that, on Sunday, I found it difficult to hang around in Sucre. Although an incredibly pretty city, I had had enough of its snow white beauty and longed to move on. Potosi, with its rugged history, enticed me, but my Bolivian time was running out fast. I still had Salar Uyuni to experience apart from the Amazonian lushness of Madidi National Park, Sajama, and iconic Death Road. Immediately, I gave Potosi a miss, booked a seat on a morning bus to Uyuni (my only sensible Sucre decision), and looked forward to my Salt Flat adventure.

Salar de Uyuni was the main reason behind my atrociously long flight to another part of the world, and I badly wanted to experience my most cherished (travel) dream coming true.

Tarabuco Travel Tip

Tarabuco is undoubtedly a Sucre itinerary highlight, and market tours are offered by every Sucre agency. However, it is easily a DIY trip, and taking the 8 am public bus is the best way to go about it. These buses leave from the main plaza, and tickets can be bought on the spot directly from the drivers

Sucre is also famous for its tapestries, which are sold at Tarabucco market and shops all around the town. All the different tribes that surround Sucre have their unique style, and it is shown in their work by using different colours or symbols. Their prices depend on size and complexity (some tapestries take up to a year for one person to make), and travelers can help support this tradition by purchasing the tapestries from either the overpriced Tarabucco market or at a cheaper price from the numerous shops in Sucre. Locally knitted sweaters, scarves, and related items, especially those made from alpaca wool, are also sold here and are pretty good bargains.

Quechua is the locally spoken language here, and hiring a guide for long treks is advisable. This area is filled with indigenous communities, and even a Spanish speaker finds it hard to get around on their own. Respecting and being sensitive to the indigenous culture is very important to experience their true lifestyle and be accepted. Sucre is also a good jumping-off base for bus trips to nearly every part of the country.