Slow traveling and a Dharamkot trip

Slow travel is the latest “IT” word in the travel industry. People from all over the planet are raving and writing so much about the benefits of slow travel that you often wonder if the joy of lazing on a hammock on the beach was ever discovered. The truth is that despite my snarky comment, slow travel was indeed a lost art for quite some time. Vacation planning, traveling, and frenetic sightseeing had taken precedence because the hard-working folks wanted full utilization of their holiday time and money. However, with the new trend of young professionals ditching their careers for traveling, slow travel has once again become popular, and the lazy hippie ways of taking it easy are making a comeback. Moreover, traveling itself has started paying back, and it makes sense to go easy on it. Not too long ago, I used to be one of the lucky few whose job made her travel like crazy, and it taught me the art of slowing down. I learned to relax, unravel, breathe easier, listen to my body, and soak myself completely into my new environment. When you travel for work, it is quite understandable that your schedule is hectic, and holidays are meant for being lazy. My Dharamkot trip is a perfect example of that, and I was not even supposed to be there.

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The Dalai Lama and a change of plans

My original destination was Bir, the paragliding hub in Himachal Pradesh, India. A friend of mine has a flying school there, and I was invited to go paragliding with him. While I was on my way to Bir, a frantic request from my editor to score an interview with His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, made me change my plans, and I ended up on a Dharamkot trip instead. Though HH Dalai Lama’s abode was in the famous Dharamshala, the crowd, traffic, and muddy roads put me off, and I headed for the neighbouring Dharamkot. I stayed there, holed up for a few days in a small inn, while eagerly waiting for the arrival of HH Dalai Lama. But as luck would have it, some urgent matters canceled his visit at the last minute, and I ended up making the detour on my vacation in vain. Dharamkot, however, was so exceptionally relaxing and pretty that I quite liked it there. Despite being within walking distance of Dharamshala, it was peaceful and tranquil, and the air smelled sweeter. Being smack in the middle of the rainy season, hardly any days went without being wet, and I stayed at Dharamkot for one entire week. The downpour created messy roads and traffic problems while painting the landscape a dazzling, fresh green. Everything looked more alive, more beautiful, and the sky was impossibly grey blue. The North Indian state of Himachal Pradesh is, by its right, a very picturesque place, and the rain made it lovelier. Glistening raindrops sparkled on the pine trees, and the richly coloured sky contrasted brilliantly with the dazzling snow-capped mountains, green valleys, and bountiful orchards.

Suggested Read: Daksum, the hidden jewel of Kashmir

When time slowed down on my Dharamkot trip

Perhaps it was the rain or the tranquility of Dharamkot that made me slow down, and my days were spent reading, napping, walking, and being kind to my body. During quiet evenings, I also liked exploring different ways to unwind online, including bizbet, before heading back out to enjoy the peaceful mountain surroundings. Being on a physically challenging contractual job made me prone to frequent burnout, and it felt simply blissful to just do nothing. The restful body calmed down my whirring mind, too, and I found myself sleeping better, eating healthier, and getting up in the morning without feeling tired. Call it a wellness break or a slow-traveling experience, but my Dharamkot trip was very relaxing. My toughest decisions were choosing between walking around the fragrant pine forests or eating out at various small restaurants scattered all over the slope, and in a rat race world like ours, that was the closest I could attain to simple living. To many, it may sound monotonous, but there is something mindlessly soothing about having the same routine every day. Only once did an impromptu Tibetan dance festival lighten up a gloomy afternoon, and the splash of mountain costumes against the Himalayan chants was an amazing sight. Sometimes, on clear days, I exhausted myself by hiking through the rhododendron forests of Dharamkot, and rainy evenings always guaranteed gently swaying on a hammock with a book. Mountain nights, depending on whether clear or stormy, can be either magnificent or terrifying, and more than once during my stay, thunderstorms ripped out the electricity to the village. Those nights were scarily long; mostly spent huddling under blankets by a flickering candle and watching lightning tear violet streaks across inky black nights. Time seemed to move at its slowest then, and I stayed awake until flame-driven moths left powdery traces of their wings against my window.

More from the mountains: Wet apple flowers of Kokkernag

Moving on before boredom settles in

Post stormy nights, Dharamkot, mornings always dawned crystal clear. The air was so sweet that you could almost taste it in your mouth. Birds chattered endlessly outside my window, and the rain-swollen waterfalls could be heard from the terrace. My late naps, usually on such mornings, ended with heavy traditional Indian breakfasts, after which acute restlessness used to set in. As long as I can remember, restlessness has always been a struggle for me, and it continues to hinder my complete indulgence in slow travel. Even during my Dharamkot trip, I used to hike around the forests like a real wild child until my energy would run out. With a small packed lunch, water bottle, and a hiking stick, I roamed for hours, stopping only to collect fallen rhododendron blossoms and listen to the cries of unseen birds echoing through the valleys below. Those were some of my finest travel moments, and even now, upon closing my eyes, I can smell the fresh pine needles crunching beneath my boots. The hikes always began and concluded the same way: by following groups of saffron-robed monks to and from Dharamkot, with a light dinner at my favourite eatery at night. Needless to say, this got mundane soon, and before I knew it, boredom crept in. Slow travel was good as long as it lasted, and finally, I came to terms with the fact that perhaps it was not meant for me. Moving on was more of my style, and at that time, my friend’s renewed invitation for paragliding came as a welcome respite.

Travel Tip

How to reach

The best way to reach Dharamkot is by bus from Delhi to Dharamshala (also known as McLeod Ganj). The buses leave from ISBT and Majnu ka Tilla and are suitable for all budgets. The comforts vary according to the bus fare, and it takes around 11 hours to reach Dharamshala. The quiet village of Dharamkot is around 30 30-minute walk (2 kilometers) from Dharamshala bus station, and you can also take an autorickshaw to reach there.

When to visit

April – June is the best time to visit Dharamkot. Winters can be very cold there, and July-September is avoidable due to the heavy monsoon. October and November are also pretty nice, and the prices are much lower than in summer.

Stay and Dine

There are many inns, guest houses, and homestays at Upper and Lower Dharamkot. I stayed at the Dharamkot Inn and found it to be pretty comfortable. Dharamkot is a delicious destination, and one can enjoy Indian and Western dishes at one of the many restaurants there. Do not miss eating out at the very popular Trek and Dine cafe. Food lovers may try the delicious Bhagsu cake, the best sample of which is available at the Moonlight Cafe. There are also some restaurants serving only vegetarian and vegan food. Many restaurants and homestays offer cooking classes too. Like most Himalayan hill stations in India, herb- and fruit-based alcohol is easily found at Dharamkot. Grocery shops sell many varieties of Himalayan fruit wines and apple cider. Try the Rhododendron wine if you are feeling adventurous, or skip alcohol completely.

Things to Do

For such a small village, Dharamkot offers an incredible array of meditation and yoga courses, alternative therapies, and workshops. It is also a hippie base, though most travelers find it tranquil and peaceful. The best way to enjoy Dharamkot is by walking around the lovely nature in which it nestles. It is a great place for unwinding, reading a book, relaxing, and slow travel in general. For those seeking spiritual healing, there is the Tushita Buddhist Meditation Center. A beautiful, colourful Tibetan-style monastery, Tushita offers programs like the 10-day Discovering Buddhism course. There is a daily guided meditation course at 9.30 am held in the beautifully decorated Tibetan gompa next to the Dhamma Sikhara Vipassana Meditation Centre. Since Tushita is extremely popular, book ahead of time. Dharamkot is also very popular as a base for treks such as the Triund trek, Illaqua, and Indrahar Pass. Alternatively, you can book a single- or multiple-day local village and countryside hike and start with the neighbouring village of Bhagsu. For a more action-packed day, head to the Dalai Lama Monastery, which is also known as the Tsuglagkhang Complex. Spend time at the Tibetan Museum, eat momos and other Tibetan food, and volunteer with the refugees. You may also stand a chance to attend an audience with HH Dalai Lama himself if he is in town.

Here is what other bloggers say about Dharamkot – Global Gallivanting, Drifter Planet

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FAQs

What are the top things to do in Dharamkot?
Dharamkot’s main appeal is slow-paced hiking through fragrant pine forests and rhododendron blossoms, following saffron-robed monks on the trails to and from Dharamshala, meditating, and simply unwinding at a small inn or homestay. It’s also a great base for eating out at popular spots like the Trek and Dine cafe and the Moonlight Cafe (known for Bhagsu cake), and for trying local Himalayan fruit wines like Rhododendron wine.

Is a trip to Dharamkot worth it?
Yes, if you’re after a restful, unhurried experience rather than a sightseeing checklist. The article’s author found it exceptionally relaxing and pretty, describing better sleep, healthier eating, and a general sense of calm after a few days there, even though a planned Dalai Lama interview that prompted the trip fell through.

How many days do you need in Dharamkot?
The article doesn’t give an exact day count, but the author’s stay was a multi-day, slow-travel style visit — staying put at one inn, hiking daily, and easing into a simple routine rather than moving quickly between sights. A few days is enough to settle into that rhythm and explore the village and surrounding forest trails.

What is Dharamkot known for?
Dharamkot is known as a quiet, less crowded neighbour to Dharamshala (home of the Dalai Lama), popular for slow travel, meditation, nature walks, and a laid-back hippie-traveler atmosphere, including opportunities to volunteer with the local refugee community.

Is Dharamkot safe for tourists?
The article doesn’t discuss safety directly, but it describes Dharamkot as tranquil and welcoming, with the author staying comfortably at a small inn and hiking alone through the forests without incident. As with any hill-station travel in India, it’s sensible to check current local conditions before you go.

I’m planning a trip to Dharamkot — what should I prioritize seeing and doing there?
Prioritize slowing down: spend your mornings on forest hikes toward Dharamshala, your afternoons choosing between pine-forest walks or trying restaurants scattered along the slope, and your evenings unwinding at your homestay. Don’t miss the Trek and Dine cafe and the Bhagsu cake at Moonlight Cafe, and build in unstructured time rather than a packed itinerary.

Can you give me an honest, first-hand take on what Dharamkot is actually like to visit?
The author’s honest take is that Dharamkot felt like stepping onto a different planet from ordinary travel — restful almost to the point of monotony, but mindlessly soothing. They admit their own restlessness made full ‘slow travel’ a struggle at times, so it’s a destination that rewards travelers genuinely willing to do very little, rather than those looking for constant activity.

What’s the best time of year to visit Dharamkot, and why?
April to June is the best time to visit, according to the article. Winters get very cold, and July to September should be avoided due to heavy monsoon rains; October and November are also good, with the added benefit of lower prices than in the summer season.

What should a first-time visitor to Dharamkot know before they go?
First-timers should know Dharamkot is reached via a roughly 20-minute, 2-kilometer walk or autorickshaw ride from Dharamshala bus station, that accommodation options range across Upper and Lower Dharamkot inns and homestays, and that the destination is built around slowing down rather than sightseeing — the article suggests going in with an open, unhurried mindset.

How does Dharamkot compare to nearby destinations for someone deciding where to go?
Compared to Dharamshala itself, which the author found crowded with heavier traffic and muddy roads, Dharamkot offered a quieter, more relaxing alternative just nearby. Compared to a high-adrenaline destination like Bir (a paragliding hub also mentioned in the article), Dharamkot is squarely aimed at travelers seeking rest and slow travel rather than adventure sports.