Rothenburg ob der Tauber: postcard pretty or overrated?

July 28, 2024By maverickbirdPosted in Cologne Diaries, Europe, Expat Life, Germany, Outside India

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Whenever you search for the prettiest villages/towns in Europe on the internet, Rothenburg ob der Tauber tops the list. Indeed, it is very pretty. with cobbled lanes, colorful half-timbered houses, and towered walls. The setting is very romantic too and in the evenings, when the lamplights glow, it looks magical especially. However, despite all its preserved prettiness, it lacks something – something that provides a place with its unique character and that is the gritty human element.

The ochre yellow buildings of Rothenburg ob der Tauber

The well-preserved Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Despite all its loveliness, I found this famous German tourist attraction to be boring. It was well-preserved to almost a ´´Disney theme park´´ perfection and I could not make myself interested enough to spend a night there. I like places that show signs of wear and tear; signs that generations have inhabited that place, loved, hated, wedded, birthed, and died; signs of belonging, and other human follies. Picture-perfect places bore me to no end because they fail to capture the heart with stories of the people who originally lived there.

A very popular tourist spot

Moreover, I hate being poked about my a gazillion selfie sticks and there is nothing more disagreeable than being in other people´s photos, looking grumpy. Unfortunately, due to its iconic beauty and reputation as one of the prettiest places in Europe. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is swarmed with tourists nearly throughout the year. In summer, it is like a theme park that is overrun by tourists, and everything costs double. Perhaps I am being cynical and despite my rant, I would like to revisit Germany´s most famous medieval town at a quieter time to find out if the place has a soul after all. Check this mini guide and photo essay and decide for yourself.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber Travel Tips

Located in the Franconia region of Bavaria in Germany, Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of the highlights of the Romantic Route. Its charming name is derived from the town´s location on a plateau overlooking the Tauber River and the picturesque Rothenburg Castle lies close by. While the Celts inhabited the location in the early 1st century, the town flourished over a period of time under the patronage of the counts of Comburg-Rothenburg. The Staufel dynasty cherished it too and this charming town went through the usual – golden age, death and decay, and the ultimate post-World War reconstruction. Perhaps it was because of the overzealous urban conservation order or high demand as a tourist destination, but this town today is a photogenic place without a soul. However, it is still charming and makes a wonderful day trip from the nearby cities of Munich and Frankfurt.

How to Reach Rothenburg ob der Tauber

By train: The historic city center is located at a convenient 10-minute walking distance from the train station. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is well-connected with major transport hubs like Minich, Frankfurt, and Nuremberg.

By car: It is easily reachable via the Autobahn (A7), or as part of the scenic Romantic Road. Although there is limited parking inside the old town, several car parks are outside the city walls. Retain your parking ticket to get out of the car park.

Where to Stay

Being a popular tourist destination, Rothenburg ob der Tauber has plenty of accommodation options that are suitable for all tastes and budgets. Select from a wide variety of guesthouses, traditional inns, B&Bs, and hotels. Book early because accommodations are sold out fast during the summer holidays.

Things to See in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

The best way to experience Rothenburg ob der Tauber is to walk around the old town at your own pace. It is a place full of lovely details if you care to stop long enough and look.

Marktplatz – The main square is the bustling nerve center. The square is highlighted by the gothic Town Hall and it is possible to climb up the 220 steps of the Town Hall Tower for fantastic bird´s eye views of the medieval town. There are preserved dungeons below the town hall that are open to the public. The Councilor´s Tavern or the Ratstrinkstube is also located on the Marktplatz. It has a famous clock face that chimes every hour and is associated with a quirky legend of a mayor who saved the town by drinking a tankard of wine.
Altstadt or the Old Town – This is the crown jewel. Impeccably preserved, the Altstadt is full of colourful buildings, historic doorways, ornate fountains, and cobbled lanes. The picture-postcard photo stop – the iconic Das Plönlein or “Little Square” is located here. Famous for its view of the old clock tower and a crooked, yellow house, Das Plönlein is a quintessential Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Another lovely area is the Herngaße with its traditional half-timbered buildings and a striking 16th-century fountain. The Altstadt is a charming place to sit at a sidewalk cafe, have a drink, and people-watch.
The Castle Gardens – Although the namesake castle was destroyed in an earthquake in the 1300s, one can explore the beautiful gardens that embellish its site. The Castle Garden (Burggarten) is popular among both the locals and the tourists and offers beautiful views of the Tauber Valley.
The City Walls – It is believed that the medieval city walls of Rothenburg ob der Tauber are constructed from the stone of the original castle that was destroyed in an earthquake. Today the 4 km long city walls are open to the public and is a nice place to soak up some atmosphere of the place.
Visit a local museum – This town has plenty of museums for rainy days. Its most famous museum is the Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas Museum which is open year-round and offers some great traditional German Christmas ornaments and decorations. There are also the grisly Medieval Crime and Justice Museum and the Rothenburg Museum.
Grab some Schneebällen – Loosely translated as ´snowballs´, these are one of the traditional delicacies of the region. Made from deep-fried pastry, schneebällen are covered with sugary toppings and come in two sizes: big (tennis ball-sized) and small (pool ball-sized).
The Night Watchman Tour – This is one of the most famous things to do in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Every night, a local dressed as a medieval night watchman takes visitors on a walk around the town. He tells stories (often a bit embellished) of its medieval past and the importance of night watchmen. The tours are purely for entertainment and are held in English too. The tour starts at the Marktplatz at 8 pm every night and costs 9 euros. No prior reservation is required.