Le Panier, the heart of Marseille

Le Panier in Marseille is the quintessential south of France. Imagine narrow alleys of tightly packed houses with pastel-coloured shutters, fluttering of drying laundry, quaint shops and cafes, picturesque lampposts, small hidden squares, an azure blue sky, and golden sunshine providing cool shadows, and you will have Le Panier, the oldest district of Marseille. It is very pretty and very expensive thanks to its historic status, stunning street art, and proximity to the sea. Today, Le Panier is a very touristy ´´must-visit´´ area in Marseille but it was not always so. In the early 20th century, when waves of immigrants from Italy, Corsica, and North Africa moved to Marseille, they traditionally first settled in Le Panier. This may be because of its close location to the Old Port and over the years this mix of cultures gave Le Panier its unique charm.

Le Panier is one of the oldest settlements in France

Interestingly, Le Panier´s history dates back over 2,600 years, and it is one of France´s oldest settlements. Named after the “Le Logis du Panier” inn, Le Panier is the birthplace of Marseille. Originally, founded by the Greeks as Massalia, it flourished under Roman rule. Today, remnants of these two civilizations can still be seen in the ruins amidst the medieval buildings of the neighbourhood. The Greeks selected this location because of its proximity to the sea and hilltop location. They established themselves near the ‘butte Saint Laurent’ and in the Middle Ages, the town continued to flourish and spread to the other side of the port. However, it was a poor man´s area and in the 12th century, the Fraternity of the Holy Spirit founded a charitable hospital here. In 1745, a large hospice called the ‘Vieille-Charité’ was built and it was mostly to confine the ill to prevent germs from entering the ´´main city´´.

From the shady district to a trendy one

In the 19th and early 20th century, the reputation of Le Panier became worse and it became infamous for its cutthroats, prostitution, and fences. Life was not picturesque in the poor man´s quarter and stray dogs, open garbage cans, the cries of seagulls, and the stench of urine mingled with the salty breeze of the nearby sea. It soon turned into a hotbed of Jews fleeing from the Nazis and WW II saw Marseille, especially Le Panier being plagued by the deportation of the Jews and heavy German bombing. By the end of the 20th and early 21st century, Marseille´s oldest district experienced a renaissance and a huge renovation and urban development plan took place. It received a massive makeover and changed its avatar from a poor man´s quarter to an area of artists’ studios, shops, and designers. Only some names of the streets – Rue du Panier (Basket Street), Rue des Moulins (Mills Street), and Rue du Refuge (Shelter Street) are reminiscent of the times when craftsmen and shopkeepers inhabited the area.

Le Panier is an open-air museum

Today, Le Panier is like an open-air museum. The walls are covered with street art. There are small café terraces, and small designer shops selling Marseille soap at nearly every corner and the steep steps offer stunning views of the blue Midi. The steps and the breathtaking views are yet another charm of Le Panier and these are due to development restrictions that forbade any construction in the areas delimited by the ramparts of the old fort. That is why Le Panier developed like a rabbit´s warren of narrow alleys with steep, long slopes and it also explains why the houses are so tightly packed next to each other. There is no doubt that Le Panier is characterized by its steep alleys and you need plenty of stamina to go up and down those staircases. The locals refer to this phenomenon as “going up to the Basket”, or  “going down to the port”. Today, despite its current glitzy image, Le Panier has retained its old-world charm. While exploring, one can come across quiet residential areas with children playing football on streets so narrow that only a small car can fit through or see neighbours chatting garrulously from window to window across the alley. This is especially true in the Passage de Lorette on the northern edge of the district.

Le Panier Travel Guide

Irrespective of whether you go there for the street art or just to soak up the atmosphere, Le Panier will not disappoint you. It is an old jewel that has been recently polished but still retails a lot of authentic charm. Here is a brief travel guide to help you explore Le Panier.

How to Reach Le Panier

The best way to explore Le Panier is to start at La Cathédrale de La Major near Mucem. Just cross the street to officially enter Le Panier and start exploring. The streets are well-marked with signs pointing towards the chief attractions. You can also grab one of the maps provided by Le Panier Marseille and follow a route. However, one of the most enjoyable ways to soak up the atmosphere of this place is to wander and stumble across the following attractions:

• Vieille Charité – A beautifully preserved 16th-century building with a past. For centuries, it was used as a home for poor people until the city took over and transformed it into a museum of archaeology and contemporary art.
• Rue du Panier – One of the main and picturesque streets of the district, it runs from the square “Place des Treize Cantons” to the square “Place des Moulins”.
•  Rue du Refuge – This street art splashed street crosses the big area of the Refuge and ends in the Place des Pistoles with the Museum La Vieille Charité.
• Hotel-Dieu – A five-star hotel, this 12th-century building dominates the Old Port of Marseille at night with its brilliant lights.
• La Cathédrale de La Major – This baroque-style cathedral is a rarity. It is one of the bishop´s palaces that do not face the east.
• Street Art – Le Panier is one of the world´s premier graffiti districts. Just walk around and immerse yourself in this wonderful expression of art.