A perfect stay in Cochin in Kerala

I have been visiting Cochin for some years now and it remains one of my favourite cities in India. There are many reasons for this. First of all, I love how Kochi a.k.a Cochin despite being a mega city has a jungle feel to it. Either by design or by an unwritten law, only a handful of buildings in the city are higher than the surrounding trees thus creating an urban jungle illusion. I love how thick the banana trees grow alongside the network of rivers and the way fishing boats float idyllically in the middle of the city.

Princess Street scene in Fort Cochin

Kolams and fresh flowers in hair

Cochin has a grounded, earthy charm that is undeniable and the sloping, tiled roofs of traditional buildings simply make me want to stay there forever. Add to that the intricate kolams or rice powder designs that decorate the front of the residential buildings and the fresh flowers that adorn the women’s hair, Cochin becomes absolutely irresistible. The locals are friendlier than most of their counterparts, the residential streets are quiet, and I love how the different parts of the city known as islands are accessible by ferries. During Christmas and Onam, Kochi is a delight to be in and the port city deserves a few days before making a mad dash for the palm-fringed backwaters.

The beautiful kolam design seen in front of a house in Fort Cochin.
The beautiful kolam design is seen in front of a house in Fort Cochin.

The foreign influences on Cochin

Kochi or the Queen of the Arabian Sea has been drawing travelers, explorers, fortune hunters, and traders since time immemorial. Straddling a cluster of backwaters, the city sits astride the northern end of a peninsula, several islands, and a portion of the mainland. Foreign influences on Cochin are numerous and these come distinctly marked with giant Chinese fishing nets, a 450-year-old synagogue, ancient mosques, Portuguese- and Dutch-era houses, and the crumbling remains of the British Raj. While the mainland Ernakulam remains the hectic transport and cosmopolitan hub, the historical towns of Fort Cochin and Mattancherry are wonderfully atmospheric.

cochin jew town
The magnificent ex traders houses in Jew Town in Mattancherry.

The exotic mishmash

Tourism booms here and arty, hipster cafes jostle for space with grand colonial-style hotels, expensive boutiques, and candy coloured heritage houses with gabled roofs. Stunning street art splash the walls, traffic remains controlled here and old gnarly trees create massive shades under which morning fish markets are held. The Arabian Sea is never too far and the smell of Cochin is one of sea breeze, drying fish, wet nets, and jasmine. Spice is sold here from the photogenic hole in the wall shops and old co-operative outlets sell quality cotton products at unbelievable prices. Women in rainbow coloured saris and flowers in their hair peddle coconuts and fluffy, steamed idlis as their husbands drive tuk-tuks, boats, or taxis. English is widely spoken here and hardly any traveler ever feels unsafe or unwelcomed.

chinese fishing nets in cochin
These giant Chinese fishing nets are reminiscent of the court of Kubla Khan.

It is one of Lonely Planet’s top 10 cities

With such an intriguing mix, it is quite understandable why Kochi or Cochin was featured in Lonely Planet’s list of top 10 cities in the world to visit in 2020. I can go on endless but let’s get started with the Kochi travel guide that’s coming up in the next post.

A scene from a fish market in Cochin during my Kerala holiday
A scene from a morning fish market at Fort Cochin.
Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica in Fort Kochi
Cochin street art
Cochin street art
At my favourite XL bar in Fort Cochin.
At my favourite XL bar in Fort Cochin.
Seafood at one of the waterfront shacks in Fort Cochin
Seafood at one of the waterfront shacks in Fort Cochin
The old wash stand or the Dhobi Ghat in Cochin
The old washstand or the Dhobi Ghat in Cochin
breakfast in Kerala
Puttu, the delicious rice and coconut logs from Kerala

Kathakali performance at Greenix village in Fort Kochi
A street vendor peddling snacks from his bike in Cochin.

Beautiful frescoes inside the Mattancherry Palace
Fort Cochin street scene
How can you not love a lively city like Cochin?

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FAQs

What are the top things to do in Kochi (Cochin)?
See the giant Chinese fishing nets and 450-year-old synagogue in Jew Town, explore Mattancherry Palace’s frescoes, catch a Kathakali performance at Greenix Village, visit Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica, wander a morning fish market, eat at a waterfront seafood shack, and hop between the city’s island neighborhoods by ferry.

Is a trip to Kochi (Cochin) worth it?
Yes — the author calls it one of her favourite cities in India, and it was featured in Lonely Planet’s list of top 10 cities in the world to visit in 2020.

How many days do you need in Kochi (Cochin)?
The article suggests the port city ‘deserves a few days’ before heading off to the palm-fringed backwaters elsewhere in Kerala.

What is Kochi (Cochin) known for?
Known as the ‘Queen of the Arabian Sea,’ Kochi is famous for its layered foreign influences — giant Chinese fishing nets, an ancient synagogue, mosques, Portuguese- and Dutch-era houses, and remnants of the British Raj — plus Kathakali performances and its historic spice trade.

Is Kochi (Cochin) safe for tourists?
Yes — the article states plainly that English is widely spoken and ‘hardly any traveler ever feels unsafe or unwelcomed’ there.

I’m planning a trip to Kochi (Cochin) — what should I prioritize seeing and doing there?
Prioritize Fort Cochin’s Chinese fishing nets and Jew Town synagogue, Mattancherry Palace, a Kathakali show, the morning fish market, a seafood meal at a waterfront shack, and ferry rides between the city’s different island areas.

Can you give me an honest, first-hand take on what Kochi (Cochin) is actually like to visit?
The author is unreservedly fond of it, describing a mega-city that still feels like a jungle — low buildings under a tree canopy, banana trees along the rivers, fishing boats floating through the city — with an earthy charm that makes her want to ‘stay there forever.’

What’s the best time of year to visit Kochi (Cochin), and why?
The article singles out Christmas and Onam as especially delightful times to be in Kochi.

What should a first-time visitor to Kochi (Cochin) know before they go?
Know that the city is split across islands connected by ferries, that English is widely spoken and the city feels safe and welcoming, and that it’s worth budgeting a few days here before heading on to Kerala’s backwaters.

How does Kochi (Cochin) compare to nearby destinations for someone deciding where to go?
The article frames Kochi as the ideal first stop in Kerala — a culturally rich port city to spend a few days in before making your way to the palm-fringed backwaters elsewhere in the state.

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