Odisha, on a less travelled path
“A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” – John Steinbeck. And that is exactly how I stumbled upon the least traveled trail of Odisha. I was on a much-needed vacation in the eastern Indian state of Odisha and being holed up in some farm resort was all that I had in mind. Ambitiously enough, I kicked off my tour with a relaxing stay at the seaside holy town of Puri, where apart from eating huge fish meals and long siestas, I did nothing much. Sometimes at sunset, I used to go for long walks on the beach and it was there, that I met a traveller, who told me about Sarat and his incredible array of adventures.
Sarat, my indigenous Odisha tour guide
Sarat Routray is a tour guide who specializes in trips of indigenous regions of Odisha and he is much respected for the passion he feels for the land and its people. He lives in the remote city of Jeypore and is quite an expert in all the indigenous communities of Odisha, Jharkhand, and Chattisgarh. Later that evening in Puri, I looked him up on the internet and the incredible experiences that he offered took my breath away. His trips usually took his clients into the very depths of the Eastern Ghats and they all seemed to be gorgeous eye-opening affairs. He introduced to the visitors, the discreetly shy Adivasis or the tribals and made them understand their amazing culture, enchanting mythological connections, and mystical shamanic beliefs. Learning about their unique dances, music, art, and language was also part of the deal and all these were more than I could resist.
Traveling along the Eastern Ghats
So, I tossed my lazy vacation plans in the wind, called up Sarat that very night and booked myself an extensive private offbeat Odisha tour with him. The following evening, I was on an overnight train bound for Jeypore and it turned out to be one of the best travel decisions I had ever taken. Sarat met me at the train station and after a brief tea and breakfast from a rudimentary street-side shack, we started our journey into the remote corner of Odisha. The trip started from the mystical tribal district of Koraput and ended at the languid coastal city of Vishakhapatnam. It took more than two weeks to explore the distance by road and those were some of the best days of my life. Driven along in a trusty Ambassador car, I went deep into the hearts of Koraput, Malkangiri, and Gajapati districts and the Eastern Ghats charmed me all along. A long chain of discontinuous hills that run along the east coast of India, the Eastern Ghats stretch from the red earth country of West Bengal down south to the misty hills of Karnataka. Riddled with stunning ruins, awash with diverse natural beauty, and weathered by time, the Eastern Ghats house a kaleidoscope of faces, cultures, and lifestyles and has the beautiful Indian Ocean bordering it like a lapiz lazuli ribbon. It is also the home of many indigenous communities and is still a remote virginal area. Remnants of many forgotten ancient kingdoms are scattered in its dense jungles and believers are said to have found there, telltale traces of the Hindu epic Ramayana.
I simply love Odisha
Now imagine, all of this being packed into one trip which was never supposed to happen and you will understand why I started my post with the famous John Steinbeck quote. It is true, that the best journeys and travel experiences happen when (and where) they are least expected and my Eastern India road trip was once in a lifetime experience. It took me to a world, so unbelievably surreal and primal, that I felt as if I had entered a magical land of the avatars. Now, cheesy as it may seem to be, this experience reminds me of another travel quote worth its salt. “The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at least to set foot on one’s own country as a foreign land.”. Very few of my travel experiences have been as eye-opening as the indigenous Odisha road trip.
Things to remember before visiting the indigenous parts of OdishaÂ
- Koraput, Malkangiri, and Gajapati districts of Odisha are most renowned for their vibrant tribal life and in the past have been very popular with intrepid travelers, photographers and researchers.
- However, some years back, tourism in Odisha’s tribal belt faced a crushing blow when two Italian tourists got kidnapped by the Maoists (insurgents) and were held for ransom. Although the tourists got freed, unharmed, the act caused too many political complications, received a lot of international bad press, and put too many travel restrictions on the regions.
- Even today, tourists (both domestic and international) to Odisha’s tribal district are strictly advised to hire services of professional local tour agencies or guides, follow only the planned and permitted tourist circuit, and lay as low as possible.
- Photography and videography are prohibited and cameras are banned at tribal markets.
- India is home to around 437 tribes and Odisha has the largest tribal population among all the Indian states. Out of 62 tribes of Odisha, 13 have been identified as “Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Groups” which means that still now they exist in very primitive conditions, are hostile to external contact, and are difficult to locate.
- Tribal tours require a lot of caution, restriction, and respect. Most of the indigenous communities are warm and friendly towards the outsiders who visit their villages or homes. Visitors are thus, also expected to reciprocate this respect, be aware that they are visiting somebody‘s home, and not behave like they are in human zoos.
RESPONSIBLE TRAVELING-BECAUSE I CARE
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Wow! I never knew the Eastern Ghats were so beautiful. Great post and brilliant photography!
Thank you very much Nupur.Eastern Ghats look prettier in monsoon.
Odisha – Perhaps India’s most underrated state (actually my home state). There is no dearth of scenic beauty there.
One of my favorite states of India. I love Odisha.
Yours posts are always a treat but the images of hinterland Odhisa in this post are haunting. It’s hard to choose a favourite but I adore the one you have titled “of a lifetime”. I can hang it on my wall. With all those Naxal serpents lurking in the nooks and crannies of that state, I’d rather content myself with your beautiful, beautiful post.
Thank you. Hauntingly beautiful is the apt description of that place. Glad that you enjoyed the post. Hopefully the insurgency can be controlled soon and more people can enjoy its beauty.
Ohh your writing is beautiful and these pictures are stunning… through a hidden India has really caught my attention! 🙂
Thank you. Glad that you liked the post.
You’re welcome 🙂 I wish you a great week ahead!
Thank you. You too have a great week ahead.
😀
magical photos, enlightening post. So much off the beaten track to see in this world. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Glad that you liked the post.
Hello my friend I just say thank u very much really great command .
thank u
your guide
Sarat.
You are welcome Sarat. It wouldn’t have been possible without your help.
Just brilliant work at words…! Wonderful… 🙂
Thank you
A great trip you had at Orissa. ….and the cover photograph is great!
Thank you. It was a great trip.
Great pics and a great blog. I am looking forward to read more of your posts 🙂
Thank you very much.
Stunning images and a great piece of travel writing, thank you for sharing.
Thank you for your lovely words. Glad that you liked the post.
wow. just wow. as always.
Hey! I’ve nominated you for the ‘Versatile Blogger Award’! Go here to find out more! (sorry if you’ve already been nominated!)
https://worldjourneysdiscover.wordpress.com/2014/07/23/versatile-blogger-award-nomination/
Thank you very much Andrews. I am highly honoured. This has been a good month for maverickbird, thanks to all your support and encouraging words.
Beautiful pictures…loved it !!
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Thank you very much.
Beautiful pictures, loved them…
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Lovely pics…….. !!!
Thank you very much.
Amazing pics. Loved to read.
Thank you very much. That had been an epic journey.
Beautiful Pictures…The last picture is my fav. Also Good article…
Thank you.
Good article, I enjoyed it…