The unconquered fortified citadel of Thula

October 26, 2025By maverickbirdPosted in Middle East, Outside India, Yemen

At the time of my Yemen visit, special permits were required to visit any place in  and it the country and it was mandatory to mention these places at the time of visa application. Due to my unexpected change in travel plans owing to a cancelled flight, I had no such permit with me and it cost Mohammed a lot of bribes to take me on a few day trips from Sanaa. Thus Thula, Shibam, Hababa, Kawkaban and the iconic Rock Palace featured on my Yemeni itinerary and these visits provided an incredible insight into the stunningly beautiful country. It was a beautiful morning, when we, one day, started from Sanaa and the city outskirts were busy with activity. Beggars, street vendors, motorcycle taxis, morning souks and cars crowded noisily and the pollution filled air of the outskirts was choking. Thankfully we managed to get out there quickly and an incredibly beautiful countryside unfolded in front of our eyes.

The beautiful Yemeni countryside to Thula
The beautiful Yemeni countryside to Thula

A day trip to Thula

Yemen was experiencing spring at that time and the ancient land seemed to be awakening from a long winter slumber. Rural Yemeni hinterland stretched endlessly till the horizon and the road to Thula was delightfully smooth and empty. It was a very unique landscape. Flat brown plains were bordered by massive mountains and our road wove in and out of ancient wadis. Sudden rocky outcrops held little ancient pockets of human habitats and apart from apricot orchards and golden terraces, only shepherds added colour to the endless stretch of brown. The sky looked huge and billowing and big fluffy clouds dappled the land with fleeting shadows. The incredible beauty though was marred with endless Houthi check posts and it felt uncomfortable to hand over my passport to non official gun totting rebel groups for inspection.

The unconquered citadel of Thula
The unconquered citadel of Thula

The Yemeni countryside to Thula

Apart from the niggling security issue, the drive to Thula was very interesting and being a Sunday, local tribesmen councils gathered throughout the countryside. They were an unimaginable sight and I had never before seen so many assault weapon-bearing common people gathering at one place for some meeting. Partly awe inspiring and mostly thrilling in a scary way, I stared open mouthed as AK 47 bearing men sat on carpets spread under scrawny bushes, gossiped, chewed khaat and waved at me. Thula arrived soon and it was a beautiful ancient stone town. One of the five historic towns to be listed on the pending UNESCO World Heritage Site list of Yemen, Thula dated back to pre-Islamic times.

The country councils of Yemen on the way to Thula

A citadel and beautiful Qamariyas

Located in the Amran Governorate, just 54 kilometers northwest of Sanaa, the beautifully preserved city stood at the foot of the ancient Muttahar Gin Sharaf Uddin Fort and was surrounded by a stone wall. Thula was popular for its amazing stone houses, narrow lanes, rock cut fortress and fame of being the most unconquerable town in Yemeni history. The compact fortified city had stone houses which were built into the mountain and they were embellished with one of the finest Qamariyas (arch shaped stained glass decorated windows) in whole of Yemen. The cobbled ancient streets of Thula went winding up to the beautiful stone staircase leading to the citadel and the center housed a great mosque, bath, souks, steam rooms, several stone reservoirs, minarets, and granaries. The intact city walls had many gates and because of its self sustainability, Thula remained unconquered even when held under siege. Beautiful blooming orchards and gently cascading terraces surrounded the historic town and with so much of beauty and heritage, I quite easily fell in love with it.

The unconquered citadel of Thula
Thula is a gorgeous medieval citadel city

A place where time works in reverse

It was a blinding afternoon by the time Mohamed and I reached Thula and I spent a very happy day exploring the historic town’s cool dark rocky alleys. We walked all across the stone paved town, underneath natural curving rock arches, stared in wonder at rainbow like stained glass windows and gaped at the timelessness of the ancient site. Time indeed seemed to stop at Thula and in comparison, Sanaa seemed excitingly metropolitan. The old rocks glowed deep gold in the afternoon sun, as donkeys trotted past carrying firewood and I sat in wonder, under pink shade of massive flowering apricot trees to watch time work in reverse. It was a beautiful day, spent in the heart of ancient Yemen and I had a quiet happy drive back to Sanaa around sunset. Yemeni hinterland seemed to remain unchanged for centuries and it was amazing how even in 2016, in several parts of the world, life comfortably moved at ancient pace. Donkeys, evening gossip, pregnancies and mischievous shepherd boys were hot topics of discussion and children played in the sun, as little ones should. There were no smart phones, hi tech gadgets, fast life and it was easy to give into the pace at which I could allow myself the relaxed pleasure of appreciating an orange sunset turning pink apricot blossoms nearly red.

Spring around Thula
Spring around Thula is
Full of lovely spring flowers.
Thula was one
One of my day trips from Sanaa.
Located in the middle
Mountainous Yemeni hinterland,
Thula was listed as
One of the most ancient
Cities of Yemen.
At the time of my visit,
Thula was getting restored
To its former ancient glory
By the Aga Khan Development Network.
But within its old center,
Thula existed in
A manner of
Absolute timelessness.
Time worked in
Reverse there and
The residents enjoyed
No modern comforts
But enjoyed the luxury
Of having the luxury of time
And living in one
thula is in Yemen
One of the oldest cities in Yemen.

Follow the rest of the Yemen series here

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FAQs

What are the best attractions in Thula?
Thula’s main draws are its ancient stone citadel at the foot of the Muttahar Gin Sharaf Uddin Fort, its beautifully preserved stone houses built directly into the mountain, and some of the finest Qamariyas (arch-shaped stained glass windows) found anywhere in Yemen, all connected by cobbled, winding streets.

Is Thula worth visiting?
Yes, according to the author, who calls it one of the most stunningly beautiful stops on her Yemeni itinerary — a place of near-total timelessness where, without modern gadgets or fast-paced life, she could simply relax and watch an orange sunset turn spring apricot blossoms nearly red.

How much time should I spend in Thula?
The article frames Thula as a day trip from Sana’a — the author visited it as one of several day excursions alongside Shibam, Hababa, Kawkaban, and the Rock Palace, suggesting a half-day to full day is typical for exploring the compact fortified town.

What is Thula famous for?
Thula is one of five historic Yemeni towns on the pending UNESCO World Heritage list, dating back to pre-Islamic times. It’s renowned as one of the most unconquerable towns in Yemeni history, protected by a stone wall and rock-cut fortress, and known for its finely decorated stone houses.

Is Thula tourist-friendly?
At the time of the author’s visit, special government permits were required to visit destinations like Thula, and unexpected travel changes meant her guide had to arrange informal workarounds to make the trip happen. The countryside route there also passed groups of armed men relaxing and chewing khat, a common and generally non-threatening rural sight in Yemen at the time.

I’m planning a trip to Thula — what should I prioritize seeing and doing there?
Prioritize the citadel area near Muttahar Gin Sharaf Uddin Fort, and take time to appreciate the town’s Qamariya stained-glass windows and stone architecture built into the mountainside. The author also recommends simply slowing down to enjoy the atmosphere — watching the sunset and, if visiting in spring, the surrounding apricot blossoms.

Can you give me an honest, first-hand take on what Thula is actually like to visit?
The author describes Thula as existing in a state of ‘absolute timelessness’ — residents there had no modern comforts but, in her words, enjoyed ‘the luxury of time.’ She found it deeply relaxing precisely because of this slower pace, in contrast to the noisy, polluted, crowded outskirts of Sana’a she’d driven through to get there.

What’s the best time of year to visit Thula, and why?
The author specifically mentions visiting in spring, when the area is full of lovely spring flowers and apricot blossoms — a season she found especially beautiful against Thula’s stone architecture and sunset light.

What should a first-time visitor to Thula know before they go?
First-time visitors should know that, at least at the time of the author’s visit, special permits were required for travel to specific Yemeni destinations including Thula, and these needed to be arranged in advance through the visa application process. It’s also worth knowing the town was undergoing restoration by the Aga Khan Development Network to preserve its ancient character.

How does Thula compare to nearby destinations for someone deciding where to go?
The author paired Thula with several other day-trip destinations from Sana’a — Shibam, Hababa, Kawkaban, and the iconic Rock Palace — describing all of them together as offering incredible insight into Yemen’s stunning natural and historic beauty, with Thula standing out specifically for its reputation as an unconquered, still remarkably preserved fortress town.

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