The touch of golden solace

Jallianwala Bagh had left me shaken to the core and I had gladly made a bee line for our original destination, the resplendent Golden Temple. While I had seen numerous pictures and heard mentions of the Golden Temple’s powerful spirituality before, nothing had prepared me for the divine experience I chanced upon in its premises. An epitome of beauty, sublime peace and communal harmony, Harmandir Sahib or the Golden Temple (as it is popularly known for its rich gilt work) was an oasis of peace in the middle of bustling, dusty human bazaar of Amritsar. Although built by Guru Arjan Sahib in the late 16th century, the foundation of the iconic temple was laid by a Muslim saint Hazrat Mian Mir ji of Lahore on 1st of December, 1588.

The Harmandir Sahib which literally means “The Temple of Gods”, is considered holy by Sikhs and revered by thousands of people from all walks of life, gender and faith throughout the world. The holiest text of Sikhism and their last religious teacher, Guru Granth Sahib (a compilation of writings of the Sikh Gurus and poets of other religions) that was was completed by Guru Arjan in 1604, is installed inside the main shrine and the temple truly represents Sikhism and all that it upholds in every way. A monotheistic religion founded in the 15th century in Punjab by Guru Nanak, Sikhism follows teachings or tenets developed and passed on by its 10 Gurus or religious heads and its main core is the concept of oneness of God. This simple, water like uncomplicated religion believes spiritual and secular life to be intertwined and its essence can be summed up in the words of its founder Guru Nanak, “Realization of Truth is higher than all else. Higher still is truthful living“.

Sikhism is the 5th largest organized religion in the world and advocates one omnipresent, shapeless, timeless, genderless and sightless (unable to be seen with the physical eye) God “Ik Onkar” (one constant). This coupled with basic teachings of leading a virtuous, kind life make Sikhism extremely popular not only in India but all across the world. Sikhs are encouraged by their Gurus’ teachings to live as householders, practice communal harmony and equality between all people. This is demonstrated with the need to share (community kitchen or Langar), Seva (voluntary community work) etc, a system which was established by their 1st Guru Nanak.

Sikh Gurus also firmly advocated “”all religious traditions are equally valid and capable of enlightening their followers” and inspired people to earn an honest living without exploitation. Remembrance of the divine name through recitation (Naam Simran) and living an “active, creative, and practical life” of “truthfulness, fidelity, self-control and purity” is considered to facilitate a Sikh follower towards enlightenment. Basically a simple, easy to follow faith advocating, “Live and Let Live” concept, Sikhism is as soothing as it gets. However in 1699, the 10th Guru Gobind Singh, to prevent religious persecution from the Mughal Muslim rulers, formally militarized the Sikhs.

He developed the concept Khalsa, (collective body of pinnacles of Sikhism) and baptized his most ardent followers as Sant Sipahis (saint soldiers) who were responsible for all executive, military and civil responsibilities in the Sikh society. This need arose after the executions of the 5th Guru Arjan Dev and the 9th Guru Tegh Bahadur by the Mughal emperors Jahangir and Aurangazeb respectively. A dramatic and publicly gory baptism ceremony was initiated by Guru Gobind Singh on the Baisakhi festival of March 30, 1699 at Anandpur Sahib and this gave birth to the popular titles of Singh (lion for male Sikhs) and Kaur (princess for female Sikh saint soldiers). The unanimous and oft repeated golden phrase, “Waheguru Ji ka Khalsa, Waheguru Ji ki Phateh” (the wondrous teacher, the victory belongs to Waheguru, the wondrous teacher) also started from that day and this changed the course of gentle Sikhism forever.

The saint soldiers after getting baptized/amrit chakh (partaking the nectar) were required to adhere to some strict rules which included not removing of their body hair, non consumption of any kind of Halal meat, tobacco or hookah and not having conjugal relationship with anybody other than his/her spouse. They were also required to carry on person all the time, 5 items which started with the letter “K” or the phonetic alphabet in Hindi. These were Kesh (uncut hair on all parts of the body), Kanga (wooden comb), Kara (iron bangle), Kirpan (a dagger or sword) and Kachcha (a pair of cotton draw string drawers), which were deemed to be symbolically representing the ideals of Sikhism, such as honesty, equality, fidelity, meditating on God, never bowing to tyranny, protecting the weak, and self-defense. Although eventually the titles of Sikhs and Kaurs started getting used without baptism, the sight of long shirt, sword and massive turban sporting Sant Sipahis on the streets of Amritsar had never failed to mesmerize me.

After the death of their 10th Guru Gobind Singh, Khalsa rose to a whole new level of power under the leadership of commander-in-chief Baba Banda Singh Bahadur. The military victory of the Khalsa reached its peak when in 1799, under the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, a vast Sikh empire comprising of nearly 520,000 square kilometers encompassing the capital Lahore, Khyber Pass, Northern India, China, Afghanistan and Pakistan was established. Although Khalsa’s power deteriorated after Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s death, the violent twist in the gentle religion continued to spill blood until 1984. Streaks of discontent lead to birth of different religious and political committees like Shiromani Akali Dal within Sikhism and thus began an era of unspeakable horror. Partition between India and Pakistan unfortunately happened soon, followed by one of the most bloodiest human migration in history and sadly the generations old harmonious brotherhood between Sikh-Muslim communities got destroyed forever. Mass slaughter and violence inflamed by religious and political propaganda shook both sides of the border.

Under instigation of a Master Tara Singh’s inflamed teachings inside Golden Temple, Amritsar was rocked by massive massacre of Muslims, which was met with an equally brutal revenge taken by Lahori Muslims against the fleeing Sikhs who had taken shelter in a local Gurudwara. Eye witness accounts of that time narrate horrific tales of violence like disemboweling of pregnant women, slamming of babies’ heads against brick walls, displaying of heads and corpses etc. That was, however, just the beginning of the holocaust and it continued post Partition with demands of a separate linguistic state in India.

Violence begets violence and this lead to the launch of the infamous Operation Blue Star by the then Prime Minister of India, Mrs Indira Gandhi. A ruthless, decisive strong leader, who ruled the country with an iron fist, Mrs Indira Gandhi ordered the Indian Army to remove the agitating leader Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale and his followers by force from the Golden Temple, which resulted in killings of many innocent Sikh visitors. Although, Bhindranwale and his demands were squelched, Operation Blue Star eventually lead to the assassination of Mrs Indira Gandhi by her Sikh bodyguards thus resulting in the final bloodletting during the anti-Sikh riots of 1984, which claimed thousands of lives.

I was very much aware of the blood stained history of Sikhism when Golden Temple appeared in front of my eyes like a glimpse of paradise. A mesmerizing blend of Hindu and Muslim architectural styles, Golden Temple floated effortlessly on the spiritual focus of the site, the artificial Amrit Sarovar (Pool of Nectar). A white, pristine marble complex surrounded it like a hushed holy womb and a long white marble causeway connected it with the gleaming central shrine. The lower levels of the shrine gleamed white in the soft winter sun and the stone inlay work wreathed flowers and animals along its smooth length. Intricately engraved gold panels shimmered above and the bulbous lotus petals shaped domes mirrored calmly on the lake of nectar..

It was one of world’s most breathtaking sights and I had sat by the lake in a mesmerized trance for hours. I was not alone and Golden Temple had rows of solace seekers staring at its reflection from the shores of the lake. Sun had sunk low in the sky when prayer chants had filled the revered evening air. Birds had flown over the pool of elixir as we had dipped into the cold water for a pre temple visit bath and colourful koi fishes had nibbled at our toes playfully. People from all over the country and the planet seemed to have gathered there and unconsciously they all participated in fulfilling Sikhism’s essence of equality.

Incidentally, unlike most religious establishments, Golden Temple is built at a lower level and has access from all 4 sides. Post bath, we had queued up to enter the shrine, carefully tugging to keep our headscarves in place. It was in accordance to the rule of the Golden Temple and was more out of obeisance than religious purpose. The interior of the shrine had throbbed with spirituality and in spite of the presence of 750 kilograms of gold covered domes, intricately painted panels, glittering chandeliers and expensive Swiss clocks, a powerful nearly tangible divinity seemed to call it home. Devotees moved in revered discipline as the holy keepers prayed, chanted and sang hymns (shabad kirtan) from the Guru Granth Sahib.

I am not a very religious person, always preferring science over faith, but on that day, divinity disillusioned my overconfident, foolish self and humbled me before of an omnipresent Almighty. The experience had left me utterly spell bound and I had basked in its joy all the way back home. It had been nothing meta physical or dramatic, but an experience as sublime, soothing and beautiful as the Golden Temple itself. I had been ecstatic that my little girl had been there to share it with me and I had sought blessings and protection for her. After all she was my essence, my core and the real blessing of my life.

TRAVEL TIP – Amritsar is well connected by road, train and air. There are regular bus, trains and flights from all parts of India and Amritsar has a busy international airport. The best way to explore the city is on a cycle rickshaw or on foot and tourists are pre warned to be wary of scamsters and hustlers. Bargain hard for nearly everything in Amritsar and the old city is an easy DIY trip. The legendary Golden Temple is actually just a small part of this huge gurudwara complex, known to Sikhs as Harmandir Sahib (or Darbar Sahib). Many shrines and monuments ring the edge of the compound and inside the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum displays the persecution suffered by the Sikhs at the hands of Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi. At the southeast end of the tank is the Ramgarhia Bunga, a protective fortress topped by two Islamic-style minarets, which houses a stone slab once used for Mughal coronations, seized from Delhi by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1783. 

Just outside the compound is the octagonal Baba Atal Tower, constructed in 1784 to commemorate Atal Rai, the son of sixth Sikh guru Har Gobind, who according to legend revived a playmate from the dead, then gave his own life as penance for interfering in god’s designs. The nine storeys each represent one year of Atal’s short life. The gnarled old Jubi Tree in the northwest corner of the compound was planted around 450 years ago by the Golden Temple’s first high priest, or Babba Buddhaya, and is believed to have special powers. Women wanting a son hang strips of cloth from its branches, while marriage deals are traditionally struck in its shade for good luck – a practice the modern temple administration frowns upon.

At the southeast end of the compound is the Guru-Ka-Langar , an enormous dining room where an estimated 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims come to eat every day after praying at the Golden Temple. There’s no charge to eat here, but a donation is appropriate and help with the staggering pile of washing up is always appreciated. It is called Seva and looking around the communal kitchen, washing, baking, chopping, sorting area gives an insight into the essence of this beautiful religion. From paupers to millionaires, it caters to everyone alike and is a humbling demonstration of the Sikh principle of hospitality. 

The Guru Granth Sahib or the Sikh Holy Book which is installed in the temple every morning and is returned to the Akal Takhat (Timeless Throne), the temporal seat of the Khalsa brotherhood every night. This ceremony takes place at 05.00 am and 09.40 pm in winter, and 04.00 am and 10.30 pm in summer. Inside the Akal Takhat, there is a collection of sacred Sikh weapons on display. The building was heavily damaged when it was stormed by the Indian army during Operation Blue Star in 1984 and although it was repaired by the government, Sikhs refused to use the tainted building choosing to rebuild the tower from scratch. 

The best time to visit the Golden Temple is early morning, to catch the first rays of sunlight gleaming on the bulbous golden domes and reflecting in the waters of the Amrit Sarovar. Sunset and evenings are an excellent time to tune in to the beautiful music performed in the Harmandir. The helpful information office at the main entrance organizes guided tours, provides details on temple accommodation and has books and leaflets about the temple and Sikh faith. The Golden Temple has a massive library where tourists/visitors can get books on Sikhism for free or at very little cost.

Both men and women are required to cover their heads (scarves are widely available throughout the town for INR 10, or a box of them are free to use at the entrances to the temple). Smoking and alcohol are forbidden within the complex and anywhere within sight of the temple. Lighting up a cigarette on the busy street out front will definitely attract negative attention, as will spitting near the temple. Photography is allowed on the outside ring of the holy lake, but not inside the actual temple itself. 

The temple offers neat rooms in a multitude of dedicated houses, but these are nowadays reserved for Indian citizens only. While free, donations are expected (Rs 50-100 minimum per person per night is appropriate). Other places of interest in Amritsar include, Mata Temple, Summer Palace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Ram Tirth (ashram of saint Valmiki, compiler of the great Indian epic Ramayana), Jnana Vapi Mosque or the Great Mosque of Aurangazeb, Vishwanath Temple, Temple of Annapurna Bhawani etc.

Source – Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and Wikitravel.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVELING-BECAUSE I CARE

The resplendent

Golden Temple

Knocked down my pompous illusions

And humbled me

With its glory

Stupendous richness

And feeling of oneness

I streamed in and

And soaked up its

Warm, welcoming embrace

I loved the religion’s simplicity

Its beliefs in basic human virtues

And the deep soul touching

Solace it offered

I spent a long time there

Giving into the divine evening

Stunning beauty

And seeking preservation

For the real blessing of my life.